The regulating valve (also called the control valve or pressure regulator) is the brain of the pneumatic control system. It converts output pressure into control air pressure that tells the inlet valve and engine speed what to do. If it fails, the compressor cannot regulate itself.

What you'll see

The compressor behaves erratically: pressure may not build, or it may build too high (safety valve blows), or it oscillates up and down. The engine speed may not respond correctly to load changes. On most portable diesels, the regulating valve creates a control air pressure that is proportional to the outlet pressure. High outlet pressure = high control air = closed inlet, low engine speed. Low outlet pressure = low control air = open inlet, high engine speed. If the regulating valve is stuck or damaged, this proportional relationship breaks down.
Before you assume this is the problem

If the control air lines are disconnected or cracked, fix those first -- they are more common than regulating valve failure. See: No Control Air to Valve Actuator.

See all causes of not building pressure / won't load →

How to diagnose

  1. Measure control air at the regulating valve output

    Connect a pressure gauge to the control air output of the regulating valve. With the compressor stopped, control air should be zero. As the compressor runs and builds pressure, control air should increase proportionally. When output reaches the rated pressure, control air should be high enough to close the inlet valve and reduce engine speed to idle.
    Result: Control air tracks output pressure = regulating valve OK. No correlation or stuck = valve faulty.
  2. Try adjusting the regulating valve

    Most regulating valves have an adjustment screw or knob. With the outlet valves closed, adjust the pressure setting. If the pressure does not change as you turn the adjustment, the valve may be stuck internally. Compare the current setting to the nameplate rated pressure.
    Result: Pressure responds to adjustment = valve working, just maladjusted. No response = internal failure.

How to fix it

  1. Overhaul or replace the regulating valve

    The regulating valve contains a diaphragm, spring, and valve seat that can wear or become contaminated. Some can be cleaned and overhauled with a repair kit. Others need complete replacement. If replacing, use the correct valve for your compressor model -- the spring rate and pressure range are specific to the machine.

Common mistakes

Do not adjust the regulating valve to set a pressure higher than the compressor is rated for. This overloads the engine and the screw element. The adjustment screw sets the working pressure -- check the nameplate for the maximum. Turning it all the way up does not mean more air, it means more load on everything. Also: when adjusting, always do it with the outlet valves closed so you can see the actual unload pressure. Open the valves after to check working pressure under load.

Parts & tools

Pressure gauge. Screwdriver for adjustment. Replacement regulating valve or repair kit. Compressor nameplate data for correct pressure setting.

Review safety precautions before starting →

Safety

A failed regulating valve can cause the compressor to overpressurize if it gets stuck in the low-control-air position (inlet fully open, engine at max). The safety valve should protect against this, but do not rely on it exclusively.

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